Before taking photographs Mapplethorpe was solely focused on making jewellery. He directed friends to photograph his jewellery and enlisted others to model his creations. Many of Mapplethorpe’s models and clients were associated with the Chelsea Hotel, he made sure the jewellery was regularly in the press and adorned people in parties and clubs especially at Andy Warhol’s Factory. He jewellery was regularly modelled by Jay Johnson, brother of Jed Johnson Andy Warhol’s partner.

His jewellery was popular with influential figures in fashion at the time, including Marisa and Berry Berenson, Maxime and Loulou de la Falaise, and Elsa Peretti.

Following the patronage of Sam Wagstaff, Mapplethorpe finally had the security to stop his jewellery business, adorning mostly himself in his designs, and directed his attention to art and photography.

"Then there was the jewelry. Robert loved jewelry. Usually the lily needs no gilding. In Robert's case, more was perfection. Rings, necklaces, bracelets. Skulls, crosses, horseshoes, dice, etc. Robert started making his own jewelry. He wore it and looked exquisite. He gave me unique pieces. Provocative and sentimental. We went out one night and both had on a number of his creations. The fashion gang was intrigued. Loulou and Maxime de la Falaise, Marisa and Berry Berenson, John McKendry and a number of others commissioned their first Mapplethorpe originals." David Croland